Christmas at The Old Town in Aarhus
Our recent journey to The Old Town in Aarhus, Denmark, felt like stepping into a living, breathing history book, a place where every street and quarter resonates with the echoes of times long past. This 'Museum Historic Theme Park' offers a surreal experience, a stroll through a time machine that showcases slices of life from various eras, from the quaint 1927 quarter to the modern vibrancy of the 2014 street, where even a Blockbuster store becomes a relic of nostalgia.
Our visit coincided with the heartwarming theme of Christmas. Having watched "Jul i Gammel By" (Yule in Old Town), a Christmas Calendar show that educates about history using the museum's sets, we were already steeped in anticipation. The show, which culminates each episode with tales of Nisser and the origins of the Juletræ (Christmas Tree), had particularly captivated Ronia with its rich storytelling.
As we wandered through the various time periods, one recreation stood out – that of Adam Oehlenschläger's Christmas tradition. His practice of crafting a small hut, decking its floor with hay, and sharing stories with his children was profoundly moving. It was a vivid reminder of how Christmas is about crafting magical moments, about that innate desire to cozy up and forge togetherness during the winter months.
Our exploration led us to the Legetøjsmuseet, the toy museum, where we marveled at the playthings of yesteryears. Ronia reveled in the playground with its oversized furniture, transforming into a 'nisse' and experiencing the world from the perspective of the tiny borrower, Arrietty.
Our culinary journey took us to "Gæstgivergården," where we indulged in traditional Danish julefrokost dishes like herring and frikadelle. Yet, it was the Yule baking traditions that truly enchanted us. At a food stall nestled in the medieval city center, we savored "liquid appelskiver," a delightful concoction of apples encased in dough and fried in pork fat.
Our visit to the different bakeries was a treat to the senses. In the 1885 bakery, we discovered Kransekage and vaniljekranse, rustic predecessors to the butter cookies that have become synonymous with Danish confectionery around the world. Our journey through time concluded at Café Bonnich, a pristine 1922 café in the "Viennese style," where we enjoyed coffee, cocoa, and a slice of layered cake, along with an invitation into the kitchen for a taste of vaniljekrans.
Inspired by our journey, we brought home Madam Mangor's recipe from 1857 for Vaniljekranse, a timeless treat baked in the heart of The Old Town. Here's how you can recreate this piece of culinary history:
Vaniljekranse (ca. 80 pcs.), from the old recipe:
Ingredients:
500 g flour
1 egg
350 g soft butter
250 g sugar
½ stick finely chopped whole vanilla pod
250 g chopped almonds
15 g bitter, chopped almonds
Rolled into logs, then shaped into the small round cookies.
Baked in the oven, low and slow until crisp.
Our visit to The Old Town in Aarhus was more than just a trip—it was a journey through time, a celebration of tradition, and an immersion into the heartwarming essence of Yuletide. It's these experiences, steeped in history and flavored with the richness of Danish culinary heritage, that remind us of the timeless joy and togetherness that the festive season brings.
